Domaine Georges Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 2017

Georges Lignier’s 1.8 hectares worth of villages-level Morey-Saint-Denis Rouge comes from two parcels: one in the lieu-dit Clos Solon, and the other in Les Crais, from vines averaging 70 years of age. Vinified in steel with 30% whole clusters and aged 18 months in oak—notably, with no new barrels—it emphasizes fruit and spice as per the house style, but this cuvee has put on welcome weight over the years, culminating in a nicely deep yet still nimble Morey, enticingly aromatic, with a satisfying acidity through the finish. In its youth, there are notes bordering on sauvage, which evolve into a fine aged leather character with some age.